December 10, 2021 By David Nash Town & Country
Forty-eight hours isn’t enough time to see all of what San Francisco has to offer, but there’s nothing like a picture-perfect weekend in the City by the Bay to take in just enough of what makes it such a spectacular place.
Begin by booking yourself into a suite at the Fairmont—one of the city’s most gorgeous luxury hotels—and rest assured the dedicated staff will cater to your every need. Arrive on a Friday morning and be sure to schedule an early check-in, but don’t stick around the hotel—despite its welcoming grandeur—you’ll have plenty of time to get acquainted later in your stay. Instead, follow T&C’s itinerary and immediately start the clock on your two-day adventure.
Friday
It’s been a relatively long trip, so head directly to lunch in Lauren Heights, the charming, tree-lined neighborhood that’s home to Michelin-starred Spruce restaurant. For the last 14 years, this local’s favorite has been serving some of the best contemporary American cuisine in the city. And, while it’s been written about many times, the Spruce Burger—served on an English muffin bun—is still worth talking about. Alternatively, get the seared Ahi tuna salade Niçoise or the fennel and coriander-crusted duck leg confit—both quite tasty. The wine list is extraordinary but consider staying on theme by ordering the Autumn Fever, a cocktail made with bourbon, calvados, apple, lemon, maple, ginger, and bitters.
While you’re in the neighborhood, stop into Found by Maja, the design boutique of world-traveling treasure hunter Maja Lithander Smith. A secret weapon of the area’s top interior designers, the shop—now located in the former de Gournay showroom—is filled with art, décor, furniture, accessories, and extraordinary vintage home goods.
Afterward, make your way to the de Young Museum in scenic Golden Gate Park for in its newest fashion exhibition, Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love. As the first American—and first Black designer—to be voted into the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, the show highlights the designer’s incredible, yet short career. While much of Kelly’s work—including his use of hearts, buttons, and dice—may appear playfully chic, the show explores the designer’s use of African fabrics and controversial motifs that played unapologetically into his highly collectable wearable art.
With a little fashion history under your belt, you’ll be in the mood to shop and, luckily, it’s just a short drive to Hayes Valley and Modern Appealing Clothing—or MAC for short—the city’s premier spot for avant-garde designer fashion. Family-owned for four decades, the shop’s regular clientele includes John Waters, Academy Award-winner Frances McDormand, and David Sedaris. Filled with the latest collections from Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Bierendonck, Comme des Garçons, Engineered Garments, and Junya Watanabe among many others, the boutique reminds you what it was like to shop Barneys New York in its heyday.
By late afternoon, it’ll be time to head back to the Fairmont for drinks at the world-renowned Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar. Opened in 1945 and originally designed by MGM set director Mel Melvin, the tropical restaurant and bar—complete with its iconic lagoon—has undergone a recent update, but rest assured it’s as kitschy as ever. Before heading upstairs to freshen up for dinner, enjoy the ambiance while sipping on one of the high-octane cocktails, like the Fog Cutter or Jungle Bird.
Evenings can get cool, so grab an extra layer before departing for Boulevard—and one of the most memorable meals of your visit. For 28 years, Nancy Oakes’s upscale restaurant has been serving seasonal California cuisine with old-world flair. Set on the Embarcadero waterfront—with fabulous Bay Bridge views—the establishment’s Belle Epoch interior has received a timely update by local design impresario Ken Fulk.
With a new, grander entrance and better-defined lounge and bar, the space has a much more welcoming feel. Vintage mirrors adjacent tall windows, new patterned upholstery, and a pair of perched peacocks are just a few of the eye-catching interior changes. The food remains beyond compare—from the king crab tagliatelle with cordyceps mushrooms and chanterelle beurre fondu to the buttermilk fried Berkshire pork chop with stone fruit and sea beans. An out-of-this-world international wine list and creative house cocktails offer a welcome challenge to create perfect pairings. Be sure to save room for the fairytale pumpkin crème brûlée—or take it to go as a midnight snack.
Saturday
Waking up refreshed, order a little room service coffee, and take a stroll around Nob Hill to get your blood pumping before making your way to Cotogna for brunch. Set on a cozy street corner in Jackson Square, this casual dining spot from chefs Michael and Lindsay Tusk (owners of three Michelin-starred Quince next door), is the ideal place to start your day. Top picks include the Fresh Run Farm sunchoke tortelli and raviolli di ricotta—both prime dishes for the seasonal addition of shaved white truffle.
Stretch your legs and check out the boutiques in the neighborhood, from Isabelle Marant and Zimmerman to William Stout Architectural Books—a candy shop of sorts for those interested in art, architecture, and design. With over 70,000 titles, a person can get lost among the narrow aisles stacked floor-to-ceiling with gloriously bound volumes.
Now it’s time to see some art up close and personal, so zip over to SFMOMA for Joan Mitchell, the groundbreaking retrospective that explores the full scope of the formidable artist’s work, including her nearly four decades in France. Approximately 80 works—from rare early paintings and personal photographs and sketchpads to enormous multi-panel masterpieces—shed light on one of the 20th century’s most compelling talents.
Discuss what you’ve seen over a walk to your appointment at 66mint to paw through their vast selection of vintage, antique, and estate jewelry. Family-owned and operated since 1951, the salon stocks an array of glittering finds—from rare pieces by David Webb, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Tiffany & Co. to stunning Art Deco and Victorian-era heirlooms.
Although your wallet will be a bit lighter, you’ll be perfectly content to hoof-it a few blocks to Charmaine’s Rooftop Bar & Lounge, atop the Proper Hotel on Market Street, for a well-earned cocktail and nosh. There are some signature drinks on the menu worth a sip—Mister Bigglesworth, Fifi the Flea, and Stray Mob to name a few. Don’t over-eat; stick to the French fries and the spiced almonds since your dinner reservation is fast approaching.
A quick change back at the hotel and you’re off to Eight Tables by George Chen. Literally, there are only eight tables—strategically set apart for privacy—so the atmosphere is incredibly intimate. The anticipation of an eight-course tasting menu might have you a bit nervous, but you’ll be feeling better about the culinary undertaking when it’s explained that the plates are small and served “si fang cai” style. Although the menu changes regularly, expect to enjoy imaginative takes on traditional recipes like chrysanthemum fish ball soup and jiu gong ge—a single dish encompassing the nine essential flavors of Chinese cuisine. Completely satiated, it’s time to head back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.
Sunday
You’re headed home today, but not before making good on your promise to walk at least halfway across the Golden Gate Bridge for a selfie. And, with enough time remaining, you can just make it to Brenda’s French Soul Food for an early brunch. Get the Andouille sausage and cheddar omelet, the butter pecan French toast, or a classic eggs Benedict, and a plate of her famous beignets—we suggest choosing the flight with one of each: crawfish, plain, apple, and chocolate.
Fortified for the journey home, you head back to the hotel to pack—though saying farewell seems bittersweet. Pulling into the Fairmont’s circular drive, you notice the bronze statue of Tony Bennett—an eight-foot monument you somehow previously overlooked—and begin humming the city’s adopted anthem, “I Left My Heart in San Francisco.” But don’t worry, we’re sure you’ll be back.